WELSH

3000FT

CHALLENGE

 

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Alpinism

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Climbing (Alpin/trad)

 

The Welsh 3000’s is one of the most classic walks of Britain. The aim is to do all 15 Welsh mountains above 3000ft (approx. 914m) in 24 hours. As you can imagine that was exactly the sort of thing I needed. The route demands some scrambling ability and the determination to keep going. I started off at Pen-y-Pass scrambling up exposed ridges, followed by the ascent of Wales' highest peak Snowdon then down into Llamberis valley and up to the summits of the Glyderau, and finally onto the Carneddau’s wide grassy ridges and plateaux’s.

I heard about this British challenge on Sunday Oct 1, 2006 and a week later on Saturday Oct 7, 2006 I was already on my way to tackle this tempting adventure.

The hard facts: I scrambled and walked over 52km and did over 3900m of ascent (and descent) which took me almost 17 hours. My first peak to last peak time was 12 hours 55 minutes. (The record lies under 4 hours !!! Unbelievable!)

Here the whole story:

On Friday at 17:30 I drive up to Wales after work. At 23:00 I am in my tent after a quite intense fight with the storm which tried to turn my tent into a kite and give me a kite-surfing lesson ... On Saturday I get up at 2:30 am. I have not slept due to the noisy wind.

3:00

I arrive at Pen-y-Pass car park. I am lucky that I took some cash since it is a pay and display parking. Positioning the ticket in the car is next to impossible because of the storm. I finally manage ...

3:15

359m

I set off walking. It is still dark but the fullmoon - though covered by clouds - gives enough light to walk without switching my head torch.

The path starts off as a wide easy trail. Getting closer to the ridge of the first 3000ft hill the walk turns into a scramble which finally requires my head torch. It is still horribly windy ... on the way up to Crib Goch I get lost at one point and finally decide to just climb straight up after wasting time in order to find the "right" path ... On the ridge it is foggy and stormy but at least the path is obvious!

4:20

923m

CRIB GOCH - This is what it looks like with daylight. Quite impressive I think. I took this picture the previous weekend.

858m

On the way down to the Bwlch Coch I really get lost - cannot find the spot from where it goes down. I finally lose my orientation completely and I am neither sure where I came from nor where to scramble to, I climb down a bit, back up, look around, even considering taking my bivi-bag out and wait for the sunrise ... rocks and rock-towers around me - no clear arete or path ... but then finally with the help of my compass I can figure out that I have been heading north instead of west. I scramble around a corner and down to a grassy slope. From there a little bit uphill to reach the saddle (bwlch). Finally! That cost me some nerves and energy, and time ...!

 

5:50

1065m

A never ending traverse up to GARNEDD UGAIN. It is very foggy and still completely dark, I climb up every rockpile, thinking that this might be the peak. If I had had a proper look on the map I would have known that it is a long arete to get there. Around 5ish I meet two English guys with headlights - they were as suprised as me to meet someone at that point of the night in these stormy conditions...

998m

From now on it's easy, I am on known grounds ... From Bwlch Glas I walk up Snowdon, the wind is still blowing but at least it's easy grounds.

 

6:50

1085m

The SNOWDON summit is easily reached but then I thought I heard a voice and there is some funny noise (probably from the scafolding and the construction works they are doing on the train station on Snowdon) - I get scared ... I hurry down to leave this spooky place. On the way down along the railway I eat a banana and a musli bar - first snack this morning.

110m

I reach Clogwyn Station but cannot find the path down to the valley. It is pitching dark. Damn it! Straight down or the safe long way around? - Straight down - grassy, slippery rock ... It starts to get brighter, the sun is on its way! - I end up scrambling down a creek, muddy and wet, hopefully I do not get stuck on a terrasse on top of a rockwall, but somehow I find my way around, jump down or scramble down some slippery bits of rock... What a relief to get finally on less steep grassy grounds. And the sun is out as well!

In Gwastadant I reach the road and walk down to Nant Peris.

 

9:07

924m

Easy way up to ELIDIR FAWR, comfortable and homogenous walk uphill. On the top suddenly the sun breaks through the fog and gives me a fantastic view on the sea and the hills around me!

710m

I eat some bread and cheese on the way down. And continue along Bwich y Brecan.

 

10:05

947m

Y GARN is easily reached. Fantastic view of Tryfan and the Glyders! - Tryfan seems so close! (Below a picture of Y Garn viewed from Tryfan south ridge.)

711m

But actually it is quite some time to walk ...

 

10:54

999m

GLYDER FAWR - I never liked this one. Again I find it hard to find a good path up from Llyn y Cwn. I just walk on "would-like-to-be" paths on uncomforable screes and blocks. - On Glyder Fawr I meet the first person after the two men during the night.

919m

Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder

 

11:26

994m

GLYDER FACH - Quite busy up here but nice views. I eat some banana bread.

700m

From Bwlch Tryfan an easy scramble up Tryfan, it's a change to the walking.

 

12:15

915m

TRYFAN - What a horror - this one is really busy - I try to avoid the crowds as good as possible and scramble down the famous North Ridge of Tryfan (pictures below). On the way down my knees start to hurt - I am concerned, also I know my tent is close by ... I could just go there and end the day. I have already walked for 9 hours anyways ... I eat an apple and refill my water - I have finished the three liters I had taken.

13:17

Finally I reach Llyn Ogwen (lake above) and of course I walk on - uphill is always easier. So my legs can recover before the next down hill passage. The walk up is the most beautiful ever. Few people and beautiful country-side.

 

14:37

978m

PEN YR OLE WEN - Windy summit.

900m

Musli bar on the way down from the summit. Some walkers wonder about my pace.

 

15:02

1044m

CARNEDD DAFYDD (right picture)

The view to the other side - a part of the North Wales hills I have not seen yet - it is incredibly beautiful. The greenish hills and the ridge to Yr Elen look impressive! (picture below Yr Elen)

950m

Cefn Ysgolion Duon - I start thinking about putting waypoints into my GPS, for the way back.

 

 

I put down a waypoint and memorise the way down - which is not on my map.

Ridiculous walk down and up to Yr Elen. Why must this thing be a 3000? It is becoming quite cool, I put on my gloves and Gore Tex.

 

16:05

962m

YR ELEN (peak on the right viewed from Foel Grach) Finallly there, quick picture and hurry to get the three resting ones done.

910m

I am starting to feel a bit tired - the wind is getting stronger and is blowing heavyly from the side. I realize that I will probably have enough daylight to get to Foel Fras and back and for the first bit of walking down.

1020m

Green slopes with sheep and slippery rocks.

935m

Muddy and wet zones. I am glad that I took my gaitors!

 

16:35

976m

FOEL GRACH I take my time to walk down to Foel Gach and the other two peaks. It is quite muddy around here. The wind is a real pain by now! I can also see darker clouds coming up. Please wait for me to finish!

894m

 

926m

GARNEDD UCHAF is a little bump in the country-side.

900m

17:15

942m

FOEL GRAS Yes! Done! I can see the sea from its top. What a great place, so different from the Glyders and Snowdon area. A quick text to Peter, Mike and Giles.

900m

976m

Back on Foel Grach, it start to rain and the fog gets thicker.

936m

I cannot find the way down, then realize it is the wrong cairn, I walk on, here we go, but again it is the wrong cairn, I am getting annoyed, I cannot see if there are other hills coming up since it is so foggy.

1064m

I take my GPS with the waypoint I had saved earlier on and quickly find the right cairn - Carnedd Llewelyn again - and down! Bit of a pain the wind, rain and tired feet - I can feel that my coordination has changed. I have to be careful in putting down my feet. It has been 15 hours since I left Pen-y-pass and I have not slept in almost 48 hours.

19:55

283m

The lake is easily reached (left picture), the walk down on the road (right picture) is a "painful pain". My feet finally decided to hurt. But I am glad that I reached the road just when it got pitching dark. Soaked, happy and tired I retrieve my tent (right picture). A quick hot shower, some peanuts and raisins and good night.

On Sunday I walk back to the car on Pen-y-Pass. Two hours of relaxed walking over a nice little pass ... finally I have got some time to really enjoy the wonderful hills, lakes, meadows, plateaus and what-so-else beautiful Wales has to offer!

 

When I got back to the campsite and paid the two nights there the owner asked me what I did and then simply asked "Which charity did you do it for?" It seems, what ever you do in this country has to be for some charity purposes. You cannot just climb a mountain for your own selfish reasons ...

 

And I have already got some more projects in mind! e.g. Bob Graham Round or one of the other British Isle challenges .... but this is maybe a bit too extreme ....

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